Letters to the Editors
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Subject: Carmudgeon
From: Mark

There are places in the U.S. where the general quality of driving is better. New York City is such a place. Of course there are still idiots and sociopaths, but the general level of driving there is better than in many places. Perhaps this is out of self-defense, I don't know.

I'd be interested in Karl, or someone, following up on this issue with some analysis of why things are this way, and if there's anything we can change to improve the situation. In particular, is there something different about the ways drivers are trained in other countries versus the U.S.? Or in the way they are monitored or regulated? It's too easy to stop at "that's just the way it is." Perhaps there is something we can do.

There are three simple steps to correct the problem: 1) Stricter licensing rules; 2) creation of laws that punish those who drive carelessly; and 3) strict enforcement of said laws.

Notice that I said three simple — but not necessarily easy — steps. There's been some progress on making it more difficult for young people to get their driver license, and there are various laws in various states about inhibiting the free flow of traffic. But neither effort goes far enough, and the enforcement of such laws is at the bottom of police priorities.

The truth is that we simply need an attitude adjustment. Driving is a right, not a privilege. Until we can convince the average American driver of that fact, and back it up with laws and enforcement, this problem will only get worse. — Ed.


Subject: Carmudgeon
From: Carl

Your 20-second rule is not for me. Passing someone going 2 mph slower than you can take longer than 20 seconds. As long as I am passing a slower car, I do not have to yield to anyone exceeding the speed limit behind me — I was there first. If you want to get there sooner, get up earlier in the day.

Unfortunately, this is the exact attitude I'm talking about. The idea that "If I'm in your way, too bad for you" is what causes most bad drivers to disregard how they are affecting those around them. If you are really passing someone going only 2 mph slower, then maybe you should just stay in the slow lane. You're obviously not going to get to your destination substantially quicker by passing a vehicle going essentially the same speed as you are (though you'll likely slow one or more people down during the two minutes it takes for you to get around them). — Ed.


Subject: Carmudgeon
From: Hal

Your article was right on the mark. I think of the dolts poking along in the fast lane of a freeway as much more dangerous than those pushing the speed limit. They possess the same attitude as the slob on your block who never mows his yard and cares less what any of his neighbors think. Law enforcement is missing the mark here, focusing it on speeders and ignoring those impeding traffic. I would like to see a report of the percentage of citations for impeding traffic versus speeders. I think that would tell the story.


Subject: Carmudgeon
From: Ken

Right on—can't believe that there are so many drivers who lack basic:

a) driving skills
b) manners
c) common sense

Maybe we ought to make access to driver licenses a bit more difficult—or equip those of us who know better with a new option—a surface-to-surface missile (BIG GRIN). I do wish that folks would stop driving cars like they were playing a video game, and enjoy the trip while being considerate of all the rest of us.

One other pet peeve — people driving cars that need repair and who drive them at breakneck speed (e.g. the beater with bald tires and no suspension — and probably no brakes) going at or above the speed limit.

Wish I still lived in a state that mandated vehicle inspections.


Subject: Carmudgeon
From: Dennis

Unfortunately you are all too correct in your assessment of American drivers. This morning I was traveling on a two-lane road when a woman pulled out in front of me (with enough space, so she at least got that part right). As I swiftly closed the distance between us I realized she was doing 20 mph in a 45-mph zone. The reason was she was putting on makeup! We were approaching a double curve and a narrow bridge, so what did she do? She continued putting on her makeup, weaving from lane to lane and then, just before the bridge, she made a right turn without signaling since she could not reach the turn signal stalk while she was holding her makeup. I wish I could say this was an isolated incident but unfortunately it is a daily occurrence in Dallas traffic. You are also correct about our European neighbors and their driving. Overall they are much better and more courteous drivers than we have here, although while living for three years in Germany I encountered some bad and aggressive drivers as well. It's a shame there aren't enough police officers to enforce our traffic laws better since the threat of punishment is about the only thing that would force some of these people to pay attention.


Subject: New or Used?
From: Charlie

I am planning to sell my 2002 Mazda Tribute ES. I am thinking about a lease on a Toyota Highlander. Should I sell the car to a used car dealer or a new car dealer? I try to avoid selling to individuals.

If you currently own the Mazda and have completely paid it off, you are in a fairly strong position to get a good trade-in price. Look up the trade-in price on Edmunds.com True Market Value (TMV) and use this as a guide. Let the dealer know that buying the Toyota depends on getting a good trade-in credit on the Mazda. Or, start the process by getting trade-in bids at three different Toyota dealerships and buy at the car lot where you get the highest offer. Make sure that you know exactly how much they will credit you for the trade-in and verify that this has been properly written into the contract. — Ed.


Subject: Durango HEV
From: Kim

The article on Edmunds on the Durango HEV is dated 8/2001. Any update on whether any midsize SUVs will come out in an HEV edition?

Ford will introduce an Escape hybrid vehicle in the next 12 months, and GM is supposed to have a hybrid Saturn Vue shortly thereafter. It's likely Chrysler will also release a hybrid vehicle in the next 24 months, but whether it is a Durango or minivan is still up for debate. — Ed.


Subject: Best MPG
From: Deneb

Please send me some info about cars with the highest mpg rating, like a Prius. Does Honda make an electric car? What about the hybrids? Why not run a column about those vehicles that need the least gas because gas is an issue these days.

If you read our article about the Top 10 Most Fuel-Efficient Cars and Top 10 Most Fuel Efficient Trucks, you can find the best fuel mileage vehicles for 2002. We will be updating this list for 2003 vehicles shortly, and we have an eight-car economy sedan comparison test going up soon. Honda no longer offers an electric vehicle for sale, but several manufacturers, beyond Toyota and Honda, are supposed to offer hybrid vehicles in the next 24 months. — Ed.


Subject: Which Car Is This?
From: Jeffrey

On your main web page beside the link for new cars, there is a picture of a neat-looking sports wagon.

I cannot figure out what kind of car this is. Please help!

The vehicle that sits in that spot changes every week, so I can't be 100 percent certain of which wagon you saw. Going back through our recent home page designs, it is likely you were seeing a Chrysler Pacifica, Infiniti FX45 or Volvo XC90 — Ed.


Subject: Salesmen
From: Anthony

Your article (12/3/02) on car salesmen is very informative but off the mark. It is not the salesperson you have to watch but the F&I guy. My recent experience in buying a new car was to let the salesman make an offer. I felt it was in the ballpark and I don't believe in beating up on someone who I know gets a fairly low commission for the last possible dollar. We agreed on the price, wrote up a binder and I returned the next day to complete the sale and pick up the car. This was when the trouble began. I was very naïve to think the agreed-on price was a done deal. The F&I guy proceeded to nail me for every possible add-on and a service contract. These people are the lowest of the low and I caution everyone to bring both a calculator and a big club before you do or sign anything. Example: my service contract was "sold" to me by telling me to sign here to register my manufacturer's warranty. The net result of all this scamming was to negate the effect of the manufacturer's rebate.

Your story here is a valuable lesson to everyone buying a car to show what can go wrong. In our advice we always stress the importance of understanding that the verbal promises of the salesman have to be put in writing in the contract, which is prepared in the F&I room. Keep in mind that the F&I officer is really an expert car salesperson trained to take the proposed deal and find ways to maximize profit. — Ed.


Subject: Incentives
From: Carla

In your article on incentives, you fail to mention that if you take the $3,000 rebate on your $22,000 car and use it to reduce the amount of your loan, you come out way ahead of zero-percent financing. If you finance $19,000 at 6 percent, your payments are reduced to just $367.32 as opposed to the $480 example you give. Now that really makes much more sense than zero-percent financing. By keeping the rebate and giving you zero percent, the dealer has really just added financing costs to your loan up front. Zero percent is just a gimmick.

Yes, based on the example you provided, you did the right thing. But, using your example, if you are choosing between zero-percent financing and $1,000 cash back on a $22,000 car, the low-interest financing would be more beneficial. We've created a calculator that does this work for you. — Ed.


Subject: Odyssey
From: Dawn

I am looking at Honda Odysseys on-line and using your TMV appraiser. I am a licensed real estate appraiser, and so understand appraisal concepts.

We are paying off an adoption and so have to watch what we can spend. I followed the Siennas for a while, but really need the size of the 1999 Odyssey and am exploring that for the "next best" value. I have found on Autotrader.com a 1999 Odyssey located 10 miles from where I live. It has, however, 200,000 miles on it!

They are offering a 1-year powertrain warranty with this car.

1) Am I nuts to pursue this? 2) I ran the TMV software and found no price differentiation between 200,000 miles and 250,000 miles for this 1999 EX. I found a mileage adjustment for a 1999 Odyssey with 100,000 miles of $1,865. That with 200,000 was $1,911. Forty-six dollars for 100,000 miles? What is your advice? I thank you in advance for reading my letter.

When the mileage is above 150,000 miles, it becomes hard to make a definite cost projection because everything depends on how the car was maintained. If there were frequent oil changes, the engine might still have 100,000 miles left in it. If not, watch out! Ask for the actual service records and see if the oil and filter were changed approximately every 6,000 miles. Also, find out if all other scheduled maintenance was performed. You can use our Maintenance Guide to confirm what services should have been performed. Finally, take it to a trusted mechanic to inspect the car. Good luck. — Ed.


Subject: PT Cruiser
From: Shawn

In reading the article, "2001 Chrysler PT Cruiser December 2000," it's obvious that Liz Kim is an idiot and has no sense of automobile design or passion. She probably drives some cookie-cutter Honda with an automatic. To read about her absurd complaints is ridiculous. As a male, this is not a chick car (i.e. Cabriolets) but rather versatile. For example, ever transport a few buddies to the golf course with all their gear, or have a tailgate party at a game? Try that in an Accord or Corolla or Mini Cooper! Underpowered? Not really unless you're trying to beat punk kids at stoplights.

She's just one of those design-ignorant people who finds little things to complain about and doesn't see the whole design and engineering process! As a new owner of a 2003 PT, it's hands down the best compact, versatile, affordable, passionately designed car I've seen in decades. Among a seemingly long list of creative and rational design and engineering decisions, it's a dream come true to own a bit of American heritage. It's plainly obvious that she doesn't have a clue as to what this means.

Although I am from a design/engineering profession, I know that the design of the Cruiser was achieved in respect of the rich American automobile history. It's more about passion than simple fuel economy, 0-60 in 7 seconds or perfect ergonomics. It's about creativity and individualism. So every time I hear someone complain about little personal gripes about the Cruiser's design, it's sad to know that they're missing something so wonderful to drive.


Subject: Toyota Camry
From: John

I am considering a new car purchase. I am tempted to wait for the '04 Solara. I am hoping there will be a major body style change. Do you have any information on that? When can we get a sneak peek/preview? Thank you very much.

The Solara is scheduled to get a full redesign for the 2004 model year. Toyota may use the upcoming New York International Auto Show in April for the official debut, or it may just release the car in the fall without an official public unveiling — a tactic it used with the all-new Camry. Either way, we expect that the car will have a noticeably different overall shape along with a larger and more powerful V6 engine under the hood. — Ed.


Subject: Most Wanted
From: Obidogg

You didn't mention vans for conversions or wheelchair access. Please e-mail any info you have. Thank you.

Karmic timing. We are currently researching this exact topic and expect to have a story up in the coming weeks. Please check back. — Ed.


Subject: Jetta Purchase
From: Katherine

I am interested in a Jetta GSLTDI 5M with the PLD Leather option and possibly the ESP. I have two quotes. From Carter Motors in Seattle: $22,720 (before tax and licensing). They are having the Monsoon option factory installed. They are suggesting not getting the ESP, saying I will not need it, even with the ice and snow conditions we have in the mountains. From Appleway VW in Spokane, $27,500; this includes tax and license, Monsoon, leather and ESP. The MSRP is $20,770 before options and $22,425 with leather, Monsoon and ESP. TMV is $21,597 with all these options.

Appleway is suggesting the ESP. Carter says it's not important. I understand that there will be more of a delay getting the car with ESP, perhaps this is really why Carter is discouraging it. I am willing to wait for the car I want. I have excellent credit and will put down $5,000-$6,000.

My question is this: because this car is in higher demand with the current fuel situation and neither dealership has or can get any in for four to six weeks, am I at the mercy of the salesmen who are saying they can sell this car at any price they want? Both say these prices are not negotiable. I am willing to go to Seattle to buy this car, but if I buy in Seattle after engaging the Spokane dealer will I get good service when I need to service the car in Spokane. I have not told the Spokane dealer that I have found a better price in Seattle. That is my next step.

Theoretically, you should get the same service no matter where you buy the car. While the dealership owner benefits from your service visits over the years, the salesman does not, and may not reduce the car's price. Still, you could try using this as a bargaining chip. Call the Spokane dealer and tell them you have gotten a better quote in Seattle but would rather help local businesses by buying there. See if they can match the price. We bet they will come close. Good luck. — Ed.


Subject: Auto History
From: Letty

I have a 1980 Chevy Citation, which I would love to get a history report on. The problem is that vehicles made prior to 1981 have 13-digit VINs, and Carfax only recognizes 17-digit VINs. I searched this site, but can't seem to find a place to go for my car. I keep getting sent to a Carfax page. Can you help me? I'd appreciate it.

It was the lack of VIN consistency throughout the automotive industry that drove the need for a standardized 17-digit VIN for all vehicles. Prior to 1981, every manufacturer had its own vehicle identification numbering system and this made it nearly impossible to track a vehicle's history. Unfortunately, for vehicles built before 1981, the only means of tracking their history is through owner receipts…assuming those exist at all. — Ed.


Subject: Bargaining Power
From: Diane

I could really use your advice on this question. I just put a $500 deposit on the soon-to-be-released 2004 Acura TSX in Arctic Blue. No price even listed yet, supposedly $23,000-$25,000. Do I have any bargaining power when a car is hot and just new to the market? According to salesmen, not until it has been out awhile, like a year and a half. What do you suggest and what do I have to watch out for that they have added to the price?

Your answer is greatly appreciated and your site is great. Thanks.

You should settle on the price before leaving a deposit. In most cases, the dealership will have a policy about hot new cars: they either try for a dealer markup or hold the line and sell at sticker. You always have bargaining power by going to another dealership, one that sells at sticker. Prices can vary widely, even within a relatively small area. Look around and keep checking our TMV prices. — Ed.


Subject: Cayenne
From: Steve

Great review of the Cayenne.

I was a little surprised to hear "including a 35-watt, 14-speaker Bose surround sound audio system, the first in any vehicle." I'd say that's a first, too.

Did Porsche pay you guys not to mention the Touareg? Designed with the Cayenne, air suspension, Range Roverlike off-road capabilities, 4.2-liter 310-hp V8 (hopefully the W8 in the future). So dial out a little track capability, dial in some softer suspension and you have almost the same vehicle for half the price.

Plus that cool name, too! Actually, the Cayenne has a 350-watt Bose audio system; we've already corrected this typo in the article. As for the Volkswagen version, we think the Touareg is more attractive than the Cayenne (in addition to being less expensive), but Porsche will still sell every SUV it produces. If you don't think so, just ask all those people who thought putting an automatic in the 911 Turbo was a tragedy…until it became the volume seller. — Ed.


Subject: 350Z Long-Term Test
From: Bill

If Scott would rather drive the G35 Coupe than the 350Z as a daily driver, why don't you include that car as one of the choices in your Compare Similar Vehicles at the bottom of the page? Seems like you've left out the MOST logical choice! Am I missing something?

Our photographer, Scott Jacobs, was making a personal preference comment. In terms of market competitors, we don't usually list vehicles from within the same manufacturer, otherwise we'd be listing the Lincoln Navigator as a competitor to the Ford Expedition or the Acura TL as a competitor to the Honda Accord. Technically these vehicles could compete with each other, but because they are targeted at different market segments we don't list them as direct competitors. Interestingly, there seems to be a general consensus that the G35 Coupe is more attractive than the 350Z. Throw in the G35 Coupe's functional rear seat and similar price tag and you do have a worthy alternative to Nissan's new sports car — unless performance is your number-one concern. — Ed.


Subject: Dodge Grand Caravan
From: John

My wife and I own a 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan SE that we bought new. Needless to say this has been as big a piece of junk as our 1995 Grand Caravan SE. On our 1995 Grand Caravan, we had to replace our first of three transmissions at 53,000 miles. On our 2001 Grand Caravan, we have just lost our first transmission at 39,000 miles. This is in addition to five rear wiper motors, two sliding door panels, one new distributor and coil, one power window motor and problems with power door locks. The sales VP at Chrysler may not have liked your representation of their product, but as a consumer I think you hit the nail on the head. Just as soon as I get done arguing with the dealer over who is going to repair this junker, my wife and I are going to run to our nearest Honda dealer and unload this minivan.

I wish we would have read your long-term report before we bought another problem.


Subject: Maintenance Intervals
From: S. Singh

Question about maintenance intervals that has long plagued me. I am a low-mileage driver — we put some 5,000-7,000 miles on our cars annually. Offsetting that is that 90-plus percent of our driving is in short-distance (1-8 miles) stop-and-go traffic in Washington, D.C., with cold winters and hot and humid summers. (My trip computer tells me that not withstanding occasional blasts of speed, the sad fact is that we barely average 15 mph over time.)

So, when we look at a maintenance schedule that is broken into 7,500-mile increments, do we assume an annual average of 15,000 miles? Does that basically translate into a twice a year schedule for a low-mileage car, since for us the mileage triggers will take years to reach? Clearly, oil changes should be done a minimum of twice a year, and in the conditions that I drive in, I tend to do it four times — every three months or so.

But are other intervals really time sensitive or only mileage sensitive? A perfect example is the timing belt, which for 2003 Volvo V70 currently shows up in the 105,000-mile service (seven years if you drive 15,000 miles per year average, or 15 years if you average only 7,000 miles!). Similarly, what does one do about replacement of key fluids such as brake fluids? Appreciate any advice. Please feel free to be as specific as you want/can.

Great Web site — use it frequently when I have issues, or just to stay abreast with the latest models/features. Keep it up.

Great questions, and your solution to the oil change interval (based on yearly mileage and driving conditions) is right on. As for other fluids and services, you'd be amazed at how long items like spark plugs and coolant can last. In recent years the manufacturers have worked to make vehicles as maintenance-free as possible. Under your specific conditions I would continue to change the oil every three months while also taking it in for a service inspection at the dealer once a year. This basic inspection should be relatively cheap ($100 max, and probably less than $50) and should turn up little, if any, repair work. Doing this will ensure your most vital fluid is kept in proper order while also ensuring a general annual inspection to prevent any major issues from blindsiding you. Another way to think of the situation is as a potential buyer of your car. If in five years your Volvo has 35,000 miles on it and you can tell buyers, "I changed the oil every three months and had it fully inspected/serviced once a year" (and you offer receipts to back up your statements), you will have no trouble getting a good price for the car on the used market. — Ed.


Subject: Great Site
From: Ted

As one of the people who "beta-tested" your new Web site before you rolled it out into full production, I would like to respond to the letter from "Cosset" in February 2003. I tried every Web browser out there with the new site on multiple platforms (e.g. Mac, Windows, Linux, etc.), and I never had any problems. I believe that Edmunds did an excellent job in making sure that the new site was compatible and reasonably speedy before it released it to the general public. Based on other sites I use regularly, this behavior is atypical and should be commended. Thank you for such a great site.


Subject: Honda Pilot
From: Rob

Hi, I have a 2003 Honda Pilot and really do love the SUV. I like your reviews on cars and SUVs! Great job. I have one problem with my Honda — it does not want to start! This is intermittent; it will turn over, but will not start on occasion. When doing your testing on the Pilot, did you encounter this problem? I have been on message boards like your Town Hall and www.honda.com and there are tons of reports coming in with Pilot owners complaining of this same problem. We have sent letters to Honda, but it says this is normal, or it doesn't know what the problem is.

Not sure what to do. Any suggestions?

You didn't specify whether the problem was a "cold start" issue (meaning it won't start quickly after having sat for hours) or if the problem is not time/temperature dependent. I find it interesting because we just put a 2003 Honda Accord in our long-term fleet and have noticed an occasional reluctance to start. As for our Pilot, the vehicle never hesitates to start and we've driven it 10,000 miles. If the problem isn't serious enough to actually strand your vehicle, it will be difficult to get dealer action. I would suggest you continue to watch the discussion forums and monitor your Pilot closely. If you can get the problem to occur in front of a dealer technician he may try to fix it. However, it's possible Honda really doesn't know how to fix the problem, in which case you can only continue to drive it until the company finds/acknowledges the issue or your car becomes disabled to the point that Honda must address the cause on your specific Pilot. — Ed.


Subject: Prelude History
From: April

I noticed that you have done several car histories. I'd like to know if you have plans to do one for the Honda Prelude. I run a Web site and we'd be really interested in having something like what you've done with the Accord/Civic featured on our site but for the Prelude.

Our site is: www.hpoa.org and we're in the process of building this into the number-one source for Prelude-related information. It's a slow process though with the limited amount of information that the general public has access to now that Honda has discontinued production of the car.

Look forward to your response.

We tend to focus on the volume sellers and/or models with a long, interesting history for our Generations articles. While the Prelude never sold in huge numbers and hasn't been around for several decades, its interesting history included several "firsts" in terms of automotive technology. Look for a history of the Prelude in the coming year. — Ed.


Subject: Windstar Head Gaskets
From: Heather

I am doing research over the Internet on a problem I am having with my 1996 Ford Windstar (manufactured in 1995). I have been noticing low and empty coolant levels in my van when adding windshield wiper fluid. I brought this to the attention of my dealership in early December. Again, I brought it to their attention (again I was adding windshield wiper fluid and noticed an empty coolant). They topped it off and sent me home. Only to start hearing screeching noises when steering left and right. I brought the van back five days later and they informed me my head gaskets were going. A $1,500-$1,800 repair job. I am finding via the Internet a whole lot of problems with Windstars and head gaskets. They recalled the '94 and '95 models, YET have not done anything to prevent the '96 models' problems.

Do you have any information on this subject for me? Anything will be greatly appreciated.

We posted a story on this very problem a few years ago. We haven't done any research since that time, but the story does include our suggestions on dealing with the issue. — Ed.


Subject: 1995 M3
From: Jacob

I was recently looking into a 1995 BMW M3 and I found conflicting stats between BMW and your site. According to the specs page for the M3, as well as the editor's review, it is only offered with a five-speed manual. However, according to bmwusa.com, a five-speed automatic is an option. Who is right on this one, BMW or you? Great site by the way.

Good catch. The high-performance M3 was available with a five-speed automatic transmission in 1995. — Ed.


Subject: Sienna Review
From: John

"All-wheel drive is available on the XLE and XLE Limited models, while the CE and largest volume seller, the LE, will be limited to the standard two-wheel-drive powertrain."

If you go look in Toyota's site, it shows that the LE and CE have the option for the all-wheel drive.

Thanks, and keep up the great work. I love your site.

We went back and double-checked our sources and found that while the LE is in fact available with all-wheel drive, the CE model is not. — Ed.


Subject: 2004 Sienna
From: Gary

Good afternoon. I thank you for your article on the 2004 Sienna. There's no doubt in my mind I will be buying one for my wife when they are available. I've looked at the Odyssey and thought they were a little pricey. I like competition so I for one will welcome the new Sienna. I did have a question for you. Your article said the 2004 Sienna will be available by this spring. I've already called two Toyota dealerships where I live (Ft. Lauderdale, Fla.), and one said it won't be on the lot until the end of May and the other said the end of the summer. Do you guys know something they don't know? The more info I can get on this the more helpful it will be. I would buy it yesterday if it were available. Any help with this would surely be appreciated.

We called Toyota to get an update on the on-sale date for the 2004 Sienna, and found that the vehicle went on sale on March 14, 2003. — Ed.


Subject: Odyssey
From: Tony

In your spec sheet for the new '03 Odyssey, you spec a 0-60 run of 9.2 seconds.

Yet on your road test of the '02, you spec a 0-60 run of 7.9 seconds.

Now, the latter number seems correct because it's in the same ballpark as those recorded by other magazines. I think that whoever did the write-up for the '03 looked up the performance numbers for the '00/'01. It is also closer to my experience. As a former owner of a 2000 version and current owner of a 2002, I can tell you that the new one is really significantly faster and better handling.

Please review your numbers and fix them accordingly. We don't want to give Windstar and Caravan owners a reason to want to drag race me at the light.

You are absolutely correct. We've updated our specs for the 2002 and later Odysseys to reflect the increased horsepower and faster acceleration times. Now stop picking on those other minivan owners! — Ed.


Subject: Long-Term Test Vehicles
From: DN

How can I obtain a test car like the 350Z after you are done with testing?

Get in line behind our editors. — Ed.


Subject: Cobra
From: Zach

Being a Ford enthusiast, I eagerly read your article only to see some very disappointing times. It seems as though your writers are the worst drivers in the world. Your comments about the build quality may be on cue but you just embarrassed Mustang owners everywhere with what kind of times you pulled. I am a local at the track in Cecil County, Md., and a member of many different Mustang clubs and see firsthand how well these cars run. A '99-plus GT five-speed is capable of doing high 13s off the showroom floor with 100 less hp than the '03 Cobra. The average times being clicked off by those who actually know how to drive a high-powered car have been mid to high 12s for the new SVT Cobra bone stock.

Next time do us all a favor and lend the wheel to someone better qualified.

Hate to break this to you, Zach, but the "worst drivers in the world" also managed several 12.0-second quarter-mile times out of a stock Viper on the same day and at the same track where we tested the Cobra (that Viper time, by the way, is quicker than I've seen in any of the so-called "buff" books). — Ed.


Subject: XC90 Review
From: Jeff

I need a clarification on the editor's review for the Volvo XC90. Under the "Cons" section it says, "Disadvantageous engine and transmission combination." What does that mean exactly? I found no reference to it in the rest of the review. Also, which style of the XC90 does it apply to?

It means you either get the powerful engine and only the four-speed automatic, or the weaker base engine and the five-speed automatic. Volvo was unable to fit both the larger 2.9-liter engine and the more advanced five-speed automatic under the car. Having just tested the car with the larger engine, we found the lack of gears did indeed affect acceleration. Our test vehicle took over 9 seconds to reach 60 mph and over 17 seconds to clear the quarter-mile. Of course, SUVs aren't supposed to be drag raced, but in today's world, buyers are expecting more and more performance out of their "utility" vehicles. — Ed.


Subject: Subaru
From: Beth

Your Web site is my bible. I'm looking to buy a 2003 Forester or Outback. Where do these cars fit in the scheme of things? I'm a schoolteacher who's looking for safety, reliability and a little style. Both vehicles are in my price range.

What do you think, and why weren't they included on your lists?

Thanks in advance for your words of wisdom.

Both vehicles will fit your needs in terms of safety, reliability and style. The Forester was redesigned for 2003 and is a capable, comfortable vehicle with excellent utility. It doesn't offer break-neck acceleration and it can get expensive if you pile on the options. For some in-depth feedback, read about our experiences with our long-term 2003 Forester. The Outback is larger and is available with more horsepower, but the six-cylinder versions are also more expensive and get worse gas mileage. If you don't need the extra space or power, the Forester should work for you. — Ed.


Subject: F-150
From: Anthony

Do you know what the first model year was for a crew cab of any kind in the Ford F-150?

2001. — Ed.


Subject: Residual Value
From: Ken

I've read your article on-line, "The 'Residual Value' of Leasing." It's a very informative article but there is one question that puzzled me. Is the residual value calculated from the MSRP or should it be calculated from the discounted sales price? Let's say a purchase price tag is $20,000, which I have negotiated to $18,000. Should the residual value be calculated from the $20,000 or $18,000?

The residual value is calculated from the MSRP, not the negotiated price. — Ed.


Subject: Chandler Phillips
From: Dave

What a phenomenal job on the "Confessions of a Car Salesman" piece. It was recommended to me by the Lincolns of Distinction Web site/car club where we are currently filing reactions to the piece. We have a resident ex-car sales guy who preaches your message all the time.

Here's the thread that talks about it:
http://www.markviii.org/dcforum/DCForumID15/4554.html.

I will NEVER see a dealership the same way again. NEVER!


Subject: Mini Long-Term Test
From: Sean

I appreciate all your long-term test articles and I have been following your Mini Cooper S long-term test especially closely, since I myself am the owner of a Cooper S.

In your December 2002 article, there was one minor factual error, so I hope you'll permit a correction.

Editor Erin Riches writes:
"What did get sore was my right leg, because our car doesn't have the $1,250 Premium Package — the only way to get cruise control."

I just wanted to advise that the above statement is not correct. Mini groups certain popular features into packages, but unlike most carmakers, if you decide you don't want all the features of a package, those features are available a la carte and independently of each other.

You can order cruise control a la carte as a $350 option. This option gives the multifunction steering wheel, which allows you to control stereo functions from the wheel, and also provides cruise control functionality.

Thanks, and keep up the good work.

A quick check at miniusa.com has confirmed that you can buy a cruise control/multifunction steering wheel as a stand-alone option for $350. Thanks for the catch. — Ed.